STEPS FOR FINISHING YOUR TRAVISHER
(Steps necessary for a working tool are in bold, the others are for aesthetics.)
1. File, rasp, spokeshave, and/or sand all surfaces. A belt sander works well for the back of the tool. I start with 80 grit on a 3” spindle sander for the other surfaces, correcting shapes as I go and making things smooth and symmetrical.
2. Round front edge of brass slightly with a file or sandpaper. This will keep that front edge sliding smoothly as you use the tool.
3. Remove blade and clean up router marks on the brass. I use a combo of triangular file, needle file, and 220 grit sandpaper. The goal is to blend the router-cut contours without changing them too much. Be careful not to lose too much height from both ends of the brass as that part shields the corners of the blade. Soften sharp edges at the ends. Finish brass with 320 grit.
4. Clean up bead of epoxy from inside edge of sole. A Dremel wire-wheel works well for this, but wear safety glasses. This will help keep chips from jamming in the throat.
5. Chisel 1/8” chamfers on top and back edges of the throat.
6. Finish sanding the body of tool by hand with 220 grit, softening all sharp edges except for the chamfers from step 5.
7. Brush or spray tool with 2-3 coats of shellac, and cure overnight. Re-sand with 320 grit, removing shellac from brass. Wax and buff.
8. Polish flat surfaces of blade on a burnishing wheel. I also soften the edges on the ends and top back of blade.
9. Sharpen the edge. There are options here. I hollow-grind the bevel to make honing easier. Thiscan be freehanded on a grinder wheel with a toolrest by screwing the blade to a concave holding-block. There’s a video demonstrating this on the travisher page of our website. However, a flat bevel can also be sharpened.
10. Hone the edge. I use red and blue Eze-Lap diamond tabs. (See sharpening notes on “Using a Travisher” insert (also on website). It is important that the back of the blade not become convex during sharpening or tool control will suffer.
11. Position the blade back in place and check that the corners of the blade do not protrude above the sole. If they do, I just dull the front corners of the blade on the burnishing wheel so they will not catch and make unwanted marks. I also polish the blade screw tops.
12. Remount the blade and test the full cutting edge on a pre-scooped pine board in a raking light, cutting perpendicular to the long wood fibers. A well-sharpened travisher will leave no white lines against an endgrain cut and will make a crisp, clear cutting sound. If chips get jammed in the throat of the tool, I carefully open the throat by chiseling back a little more wood near the base of the brass. A thin coat of wax will protect the sole and blade from tarnishing and rust.
Written by Seth Elliott ~Toolmaker
Purchase these tools on the travishers page.