How do you get a spoon bit to keep from wandering? What’s the best way to prevent tear-out with a spoon bit?
We are all victims of a post-industrial mindset and we all ask these questions. But these questions miss the point. Lets look at some photos of holes that were drilled by spoon bits in an early 19th C. chair writing arm chair in Colonial Williamsburg’s collection that I recently copied:
The pre-industrial chairmaker would probably have considered this work to be perfectly average, or even above average. It seems to me that if spoon bit tear-out were the only tool marks on the chair, if the finish was polished to a mirror surface, then the tear-out would look like quite a mistake. But the whole chair is built with variation and tool marks all over it. To my eyes, at least, it is quite attractive.
Spoon bits are a sheer joy to use – the chips alone are one of woodworking’s great wonders. Spoon bits are also fast. Their speed rivals a bradpoint in a cordless drill.
Spoon bits can cut much cleaner than what you see in the photos above. In fact, I couldn’t get any of my bits to tear as badly as what I found on the old chair. And believe me, I tried. I think I just wasn’t working fast enough – I couldn’t totally shed my 21st century idea of what ‘good work’ meant. But spoon bits will never cut as cleanly as a bradpoint in a power drill. Or, in many places, an auger bit in a bit brace.*
If I ever switch to using spoon bits in my daily chairmaking, it will be because I am tired of throwing a cordless drill out every few year, tired of listening to the stupid thing whine. I’m getting close.
*As the angle of the hole and the diameter of the bit increase, auger bits tend to start tearing and splitting the mortise mouth.